LUCKY GARDEN,

Lucky Garden boasts three different menus: the 25 dim sum items offered on weekends, from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; the Chinese-American menu, as the staff call it; and, also in their words, the Hong Kong-style menu. Based on the brisk take-out on a recent Thursday evening, as well as the locals sitting near us, the chow mein and fried rice are as good as the kung po, Hunan, and Szechuan dishes from the "American" menu. But we'd been told by friends at Brown to ask for the Chinese menu, most of it translated into English. I questioned our waitress about the non-translated items, and she smiled and explained that they're dishes such as fish heads and pig's feet, which the management assumed -- probably rightly -- that no non-Asian diner would be adventurous enough to try . . .

Full review.